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Blemishes? Don't Panic

Written by DR. MED. Christine Schrammek-Drusio on September 6th, 2017.      0 comments

Blemishes, pimples or pustules.
Just about everyone has experienced some kind of problem skin at some time – whether during puberty or even as an adult. Dermatologist Dr. Christine Schrammek-Drusio explains how problem skin develops and what treatments can help.
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Professional pore cleaning is the best way to treat pimples and should only be performed by a trained specialist. There is a great risk of scarring or hyperpigmentation if you try to treat the problem yourself.
 

Problem skin is very common and appears in many different forms. Some people might “only” be prone to blemishes and oily skin, whereas others may have a distinct medical condition (acne). Acne can take many forms: from newborn acne and the familiar puberty acne (acne vulgaris and its subtypes) to adult acne (acne tarda) – an irritating condition, not only for the skin but also for the psyche. The good news: nearly every form of problem skin can be significantly improved with the expert help of the beautician and regular care at home with customized products. However, severe acne should always be treated by a dermatologist. These days, the synergies of beauticians and dermatologists have been proven very successful.

Development
Problem skin primarily develops during puberty, when the reproduction glands become more active.
At this age, boys more than girls are prone to an increased secretion of male hormones (including testosterone).
This increased secretion of testosterone leads to the increased activity of the sebaceous glands. The production of sebum in the hair shaft increases, thus expanding the food supply for oil-loving pathogens, such as certain types of bacteria (including propionibacteria). The pathogens metabolize the sebum, leaving behind metabolic waste products (fatty acids), which in turn irritate the walls of the pore.

The skin pores react by producing more pore wall cells and a comedone forms, which blocks the pores. This is how blackheads are formed. A distinction is made between closed comedones (whiteheads), which are recognizable on the surface of the skin as a whitish, raised spot; and open comedones (blackheads), whose melanin deposits are the source of the small, visible black head. If the blocked pore becomes too large due to the constant production of sebum, inflammatory cells may then be secreted, making the skin increasingly red, thick and sensitive, and causing “pimples” to form – either as inflamed deposits in the epidermis (papule) or with a purulent head. In this case, the papule can also be termed a pustule (from the Latin word “pus”).

While the T-zone is the most affected area in adolescent problem skin, late acne (acne tarda) more often affects the sides of the chin and the cheeks and the area around the mouth, spreading down on to neck and throat. Hormonal and genetic factors are suspected to be the cause and trigger here also, since the problem largely affects women. There is no difference in the microflora of adolescent or adult problem skin, making the types of treatment virtually the same. There are only minor differences in the choice of products – for example, in day care and night care products, since problem skin is of course also subject to the natural aging process. Products for young skin are rather unsuitable for “adult acne,” since they can dry out mature skin. A skin care product for late acne should contain an anti-aging component in addition to the capacity to regulate excessive sebum production and hinder inflammation.

Care Treatment Step by Step

In the course of a special treatment, e.g., the following steps should be built on one another:

1. Cleansing with intensive but gentle cleansers (e.g. foams). Thoroughly removes excessive sebum
2. Tone the skin with herbal toners. Restores the den protective acid mantle and has a regulating effect.
3. Enzymatic peeling instead of mechanical peeling: This prevents a possible spread of bacteria. With the enzymatic effect, even deep deposits can be split – an optimal preparation for deep cleansing. After removing the peeling, the enzyme activity is stopped with a respective tonic.
4. Professional deep cleansing.
5. Disinfection with respective astringent anti-microbial products.
6. Working ampoule (rich in active ingredients, soothing and astringent).
7. Apply mask (matting, clearing, calming) e.g. with activated charcoal. Remove after approx. 15 minutes with compresses/little sponge. Tone again. Forego classic massages to prevent any possible spread of bacteria.
8. Final care e.g. with a cream gel containing silver. This calms and has an anti-microbial effect. Apply covering special care such as Blemish Balm (select color according to skin tone or adapt individually), to balance the skin appearance and cover redness.


Calculation clearing treatment:
Treatment field: impure, oily problem skin or mixed skin
duration: ............................... ............................................................. Approx. 60 minutes
of sales (net):.................................................................................................. Approx. $8
Recommended treatment price: .................................................................. approx. $100


Influencing Factors
lead to “over-treatment” and thus to the formation of blemishes. Other influencing factors are continually being identified, such as the influence of the psyche on aggravating blemishes or acne. Studies in recent years have shown that neuropeptides (hormone-like substances), which are secreted in times of stress, can promote the development of inflammation in the sebaceous glands. Nutrition-related issues are also considered to be a factor.

Dairy products and industrial fats may be triggers for problem skin. These foods may cause increased sebum production through the stimulation of a certain hormone (insulin-like growth factor 1) as well as a proliferation of propionbacteria of the skin and the increased keratinization of the skin pores. For this reason, dietary recommendations can support the treatment of problem skin:
 
  • Avoidance of dairy products (especially cows’ milk), sugary foods (especially candy and soft drinks), white bread and fast food, as well as foods with high proportions of trans fats.
  • A balanced selection of raw vegetables, whole grains, fruit, nuts, fish, unsweetened tea or mineral water is preferable.
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The combination of home care and cosmetic intensive care at the institute is very essential for problem skin


Care
The most important cosmetic treatment components for problem skin are thorough cleansing, regulation of sebum production, removal of impurities (prevention of clogging of follicles), provision of active substances and hydration as well as the reduction of inflammation in existing skin eruptions. A professionally trained beautician can offer the requisite deep-cleansing treatment for the treatment of problem skin. Through special seminars, dedicated beauticians can also regularly expand their qualifications and expertise in the area of problem skin to ensure the best possible results during treatment.

Dos & Don’ts
For problem skin, the combination of home care and intensive cosmetic treatment at a professional facility is essential. The aesthetician will provide valuable support in selecting the appropriate products. These must be used regularly in the skin care routine at home, otherwise the professional treatment will not achieve optimal results. The professional treatment should be carried out every two to four weeks, depending on the degree of the problem.

Professional pore cleaning is the best way to treat pimples and should only be performed by a trained specialist. There is a great risk of scarring or hyperpigmentation if you try to treat the problem yourself. Tip: Use professional products in the skin care routine at home, such as cleansers, toners, finishing care and BB creams. Specialized products such as masks and peels require a beautician’s expertise. However, a skin peeling followed by a mask once per week at home can be a useful addition to your routine.


DR. MED. CHRISTINE SCHRAMMEK-DRUSIO
Dermatologist, allergologist and anti-aging-expert developed diverse treatment methods,
e.g. GREEN PEEL® Herbal Peeling treatment
 
 

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