The late Dr Albert Kligman; the "father" of Corneotherapy would probably shake his head in disbelief if he were around today to see how his beloved Corneotherapy has been misrepresented by unscrupulous marketers of skin care products who freely use the term he conceived without following its core principles and ideology.
As predicted by Corneotherapy advocate and organic chemist, Dr Hans Lautenschläger in 2014 says;
"the use of the idiom Corneotherapy has now been exploited for sales promotions in order to offer conventional approaches with more progressive and exciting labels", there are increasing numbers of manufactures and marketers who are looking to the reputation of Corneotherapy as a road to profit, without actually creating true Corneotherapy products.
Re-labeling of ordinary formulations as Corneotherapeutic is on the rise. As Dr Lautenschläger points out:
"Developments of this kind are unfortunate since they show that the main objective is to deceive consumers and misuse milestones of technology and scientific findings for commercial gain."
It is not uncommon for marketers of skin care and cosmetic products to "blur the lines" when specifying features and benefits to promote their offerings. This is usually facilitated by inventing specifications or marketing terms in order to impress both resellers and consumers or hide shortcomings.
Domestic retail products from the major cosmetics manufacturers are the biggest offenders; with a growing number of the "untruths" being challenged in court, with subsequent retractions of the marketing claims the appropriate outcome.
It is a different story entirely however, when manufacturers and marketers simply ignore established prerequisites and qualifications required to be identified or labelled as a particular class or category of product in order to sell their merchandise.
There are established criteria for Corneotherapy products.
So, what are the core principles of what constitutes a Corneotherapy formulation?
The first thing that must be understood is that it is primarily dermatological in character rather than cosmetic.It was established during Dr Kligman's work that a major prerequisite for Corneotherapy is that it protects as it supportively aids regeneration, and any formulation should possess properties that follow a dermatological criteria.
Any components in such a Corneotherapeutic skin care product should not affect skin regeneration or cause skin reactions, and so avoidance of many ingredients commonly found in cosmetic products is paramount for a Corneotherapy formulation.
- Perfumes - the number one allergen in skin care products
- Preservatives - the second most common allergen
- Mineral oil and non-volatile silicones - high concentrations are known to affect skin regeneration
- Emulsifiers - known to cause barrier disorders in many situations
People are becoming more aware of deliberately mislabeled products. So why do these marketers think they can get away with ingredients such as: Cyclomethicone, dimethicone , dimethiconol, phenyl trimethicone and the range of PEG's in a Corneotherapy product?
None of these ingredients fill the criteria of being physiologically similar to the human skin, however are used throughout the skin care industry in non-Corneotherapy products. Why?
Because they are hydrophobic, feel pleasant on the skin and have re-fattening properties. While the sensation of these ingredients on the skin is generally good, there is no endogenic regeneration occurring, and the skin cannot metabolize them.
Despite their popularity and acceptance is mainstream commercial (high-profit) skin care, these ingredients, no matter how the marketers justify their inclusion in a formulation; are not part of true Corneotherapy.
So what other "popular" ingredients are being included in these faux Corneotherapy products?
Some formulations are so complex they hide multiple preservatives and processing agents. Peptide complexes are perhaps some of the worst offenders, as these ingredients contain active agent cocktails that can be largely counterproductive in compromised skins, while also containing artificial preservatives.
Emollients and emulsifiers such as polyethylene glycols (PEG) and their derivatives are also non-Corneotherapy ingredients. They are used as emulsifiers or consistency agents, but need to be stabilized with antioxidants, making the formulation more complex than it really needs to be.
Mineral oil is another non-Corneotherapy ingredient that unbelievably considered acceptable by some formulators.
There is only one reason it is there: cost. There are other vegetable based hydrocarbons that have a greater affinity to the skin, can be metabolized and would do a better job on a long term basis.
A case in point is a product recently submitted by a concerned I.A.C. members client that is clearly marketed as a Corneotherapy product specifically for restoring barrier function on rough, porous skins.
All of the marketing that surrounds the range reads well; the basic principles of Corneotherapy are expounded, to the point where the buyer would certainly believe it is a true Corneotherapy range - until you read the formulation:
Cyclomethicone (evaporate silicone), dimethicone (breathable silicone), ethylhexyl cocoate (emollient), dimethiconol (breathable silicone), phenyl trimethicone (breathable silicone), ceramide 3 (barrier agent), sphingolipids (barrier agent), jojoba oil (emollient), kukui nut oil (barrier oil), hazelnut oil (barrier oil), borage oil (barrier oil), evening primrose oil (barrier oil), rose hip seed oil (barrier oil), camellia sinensis oil (soothing), olive oil (lubricant), cherry pit oil (lubricant), sweet almond oil (lubricant), tocopheryl linoleate (moisturizing vitamin E), retinyl palmitate (vitamin A ester), cholecalciferol (vitamin D), ascorbyl palmitate (vitamin C ester), PEG-8 (emulsifier), dioctyl succinate (emollient), octyldodecanol (emollient), tocopherol (vitamin E), tridecylstearate (emollient), neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate (emollient), tridecyl trimelliate (emollient), lithospermum extract (red seaweed), bois de rose oil (essential oil), lavender oil (essential oil), geranium oil (essential oil), rose geranium extract (plantextract), rose geranium oil (essential oil), amyris oil (essentialoil), petitgrain oil (essential oil), vanilla oil (essentialoil), clove oil (essential oil),orange oil (essential oil), benzoinsiam absolute (natural fragranceconcentrate), lemon oil (essential oil), ylang ylang oil (essential oil), eucalyptus oil (essential oil), rosemary oil (essential oil), cedar oil (essential oil), ascorbic acid (antioxidant), citric acid (preservative), caprylic/caprictriglyceride (emollient).
Judge for yourself. Do you consider this to be an authentic Corneotherapeutic product?
This article was supplied by dermaviduals®
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