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Problematic skin conditions require professional solutions!

Written by Dr med Christine Schrammek Kosmetik Company on December 9th, 2016.      0 comments

1. Beware irritation – cause and treatment for sensitive skin
These days, sensitive skin is no longer an exception. According to surveys, around 50% of women consider their skin to be sensitive and easily irritated– and this tendency is rising with increasing numbers of men also affected. Both sensitive skin, which is caused by genetic and environmental factors, and very sensitive reactive skin – like rosacea – require special cosmetic treatments, both in the salon and at home. Therefore, almost all dermatological care products designed for this purpose offer custom solutions for just this kind of skin problem.
The degree of sensitivity can vary. Due to individual circumstances, the skin reacts to various factors with redness, itching, tightening and pimples. Highly sensitive skin has many causes, in which a slightly irritated skin barrier, increased moisture loss, an amplified response to irritants and increased immunoreactivity all play a role. Sensitive skin has, for example, a lower tolerance to exogenous stimuli (temperature fluctuations, air-conditioned rooms, cosmetics, etc.) and endogenous stimuli (mental distress, stress, etc.).
Providing soothing relief from itching, redness and irritation is therefore the focus of products and treatments created to treat sensitive skin. Furthermore, it is important to effectively strengthen the impaired barrier function. Irritant substances can penetrate the skin from the outside more easily through a weakened barrier than through an intact barrier. Once there, they cause irritation. Substances with high levels of unsaturated fatty acids, such as GLA (gamma-linolenic acid), are able to positively influence the intercellular bonding substance of the stratum corneum, improving the barrier function. The delicate epidermis becomes less permeable and irritants are blocked.
In order to avoid physical irritation, only very gentle products with a few ingredients should be used for cleansing – cleansers with micellar technology, for example. Mechanical and chemical peels are absolutely taboo here. Any type of friction or chemicals provokes sensitive skin to overreact. Masks and special fluids with “SOS” effects help the skin to relax and restore balance. Severe skin redness can be concealed with green-pigmented skin care creams, so the skin appears less agitated after treatment and daily care.
It doesn’t matter whether you are a teenager or an adult– shiny skin, blackheads, pustules and papules affect mental balance. Impure skin, which can result in acne, is influenced by various causes including genetic factors, hormones, bacteria, stress and environmental influences. The goals of successful treatment and care products: reducing sebum, removing hyperkeratosis and impurities, and normalizing the skin barrier. It is also especially important to minimize the recurrence of inflammation while preserving moisture in the skin.
Effectively treating impure skin requires self-discipline, patience and above all the right care. The aesthetician uses her expertise to help customers choose and use the proper skin care at home and can positively affect the skin through professional treatments. Manual therapy with the aesthetician begins with a gentle cleansing. First, the skin is thoroughly released from microorganisms, dust, creams, make-up and loose skin cells. An intense enzyme scrub then prepares the skin for the professional cleansing.
Be careful with mechanical scrubs: bacteria can easily spread over the entire face if you have inflammatory efflorescences. With enzymatic effects, calluses dissolve gently, so the skin surface becomes smooth and perfectly prepared for cleansing. You should always disinfect and astringe well after intensive cleansing. The skin can be red and irritated after cleansing sessions, so soothing astringent masks must also be applied. After allowing the product time to work, remove with lukewarm compresses. Don't rub too hard in order not to spread any bacteria in case there are still open efflorescences. Disinfect the skin again and apply a matting, coloured care product (such as Blemish Balm) for final care. For severe blemishes, a tendency to acne or if the complexion has small scars and dark spots caused by acne, an additional therapy using a deep peeling treatment (e.g. Green Peel®) is recommended.
3. The time is “advanced” – structural changes
Repair care is necessary for the skin at the age of 40 at the latest. Unfortunately, the skin’s aging process has already started and works to the fullest. Skin aging refers to the gradual, cumulative loss of certain properties that youthful skin naturally has: firmness, flexibility, elasticity and pigmentation. Aging is the result of changing physiological processes and occurs as the ability to regenerate slows down. What happens? The skin becomes dry and wrinkles begin to form more intensely. Structure, elasticity and youthful radiance diminish. Anti-aging skin care concepts at the beauty salon are necessary to act effectively against these problems.
Concepts for relaxing skin and soul work symbiotically with high-dose combinations of herbal and high-tech ingredients as well as instrumental measures. Well-trained staff knows how to effectively combine methods and products to activate the skin's vital functions and stimulate its regeneration. Diminishing regeneration manifests itself in the different skin layers, so regenerative treatments should also be designed to work in the different layers. Dead skin cells should be removed regularly from the surface layer, so that nourishing and regenerative substances can better penetrate the skin and exert their effect. This can also be done at home or with an aesthetician, but deep regeneration and treatment to improve cell division activity can only be done professionally by the aesthetician.
Different peeling methods are used, including fruit acids, enzymes and dermabrasion. Herbal peels (such as GREEN PEEL® Herbal Peeling Treatment) achieve improved regeneration in the skin with minimal strain after a short period of time. Removing the top layers of the skin not only improves the growth of new skin tissue but also promotes blood circulation and the metabolic functions and detoxifies the skin. Thus, the skin care products help the active substances to be absorbed better in the salon and at home.
Magazine:           BEAUTY FORUM
Issue:                    07/2015
Page:                     14-17





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