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Acne Prevention & Care | Part TWO

Written by Dr. Hans Lautenschläger and Elke Klein on July 15th, 2014.      0 comments

Dermatological treatment
According to the developing factors of acne the dermatological treatment applies active agents which above all have:
  • sebum-liquefying
  • sebum-suppressive
  • keratosis-impeding
  • anti-microbial
  • anti-inflammatory
  • immune-suppressive and
  • regenerating effects
Frequently the active agents have simultaneous effects.
The phosphatidylcholine mentioned above which is rich in linoleic acid and can also be used in cosmetic products has sebum-liquefying, keratosis-preventive, lightly sebum-suppressive and regenerating effects for example. Several authors even describe an anti-bacterial effect regarding P. acnes.
Teenage Skin Care SpaBeauty
In dermatological practices especially products with vitamin A-acid or other retinoids are applied for the treatment of hyperkeratosis. Azelaic acid also influences the cornification process while salicylic acid has keratolytic effects. Locally applied antibiotics like erythromycin or tetracycline for example are used in case of inflammations and also impede the growth of P. acnes.

Benzoyl peroxide also acts as an anti-bacterial substance. A hormone treatment for women with progesterone causes a sebum suppression. It is recommended to pay attention to the appropriate composition of base creams as well as the cosmetic products used in order to avoid counterproductive effects. Specifically emulsifiers and fatty substances may impede the healing process. More and more DMS bases are applied in dermatological products and individual pharmacy preparations as their composition and structures are similar to the skin (DMS = Derma Membrane Structure). A series of pharmaceutical active agents is also applied systemically.

A careful cleansing of acne foci accompanies the therapeutic treatment. Peelings may be very helpful in this respect as they facilitate an opening of the follicles. A light massage in combination with a peeling treatment may support the removal of congestions in the sebaceous glands.

Only experienced and well-trained personnel however should manually squeeze the comedones by applying light pressure. Optimal hygienic conditions and a competent cleansing technique are important preconditions. The individual treatment however depends on the specific acne symptoms. A close cooperation between dermatologist and cosmetician generally is indispensable in order to achieve best results.

Only physicians should be trusted with the treatment of acne. Beauty institutes however can offer competent assistance and support to accompany the treatment.

Cosmetic treatment

In the beauty institute the pre-treatment of acne generally starts with hot steam (Vapozone) which causes the pores to dilate so that the following manual therapy may be performed in a very gentle way. Most of the Vapozone devices enable the cosmetician to work with essential oils like lavender or balm oil which have a soothing effect and support the well-being. As the mental condition also plays an important role in combination with skin problems an attractive atmosphere may be very helpful and relaxing. For acne forms like acne comedonica which will not develop any major inflammations and pustules a gentle peeling is recommended after the Vapozone treatment which also has a preventive influence on the formation of comedones if applied regularly. It is advised to choose peeling products which already have a skin-caring effect and simultaneously are free of comedogenic substances, minerals oils and emulsifiers.

Minor acne scars and major cornifications may be treated by applying electric grinding accessories. In the dermatological practice permanent scars can also be attended or removed by dermabrasion, kryopeeling and injection techniques (funnel-shaped scars).

Mechanical peeling and massaging treatment should be avoided in cases of inflammatory manifestions like acne papulopustulosa in order to escape additional smear infections. Instead of massaging it is advised to recur to manual lymph drainage.

A soothing and anti-inflammatory mask will complete the acne treatment in the beauty institute. Modular cosmetic product systems offer a variety of possibilities to individually adapt to the different forms of acne. Active agent concentrates (ampoules) can be combined with a cream base which is adapted to the sebum content of the skin. Active agent concentrates like D-panthenol, aloe vera and hyaluronic acid soothe the skin and reduce the skin reddening which resulted from the treatment.

In case of major cornifications, milia and scars a combination of a DMS base cream with a low fat content, vitamin A nanoparticles and liposome concentrate is recommended.

Healing earth can also be used as a base for masks especially for cases of seborrhoe oleosa. In contrast to cream bases they will completely be removed after about 20 minutes. In case of any inflammations diagnosed however the mask never should begin to dry. In this connection the mask is to be covered with moist compresses.

For the treatment of acne tarda which may develop around the age of 30 (see above), frequently is very persistent and shows a scaly and tense surface of the skin, masks and lotions containing nanoparticles have proved successful. Nanoparticles which contain natural phosphatidylcholine with a combined linoleic acid compensate the deficiencies which are characteristic for this type of acne. In contrast to liposomes, nanoparticles also contain higher amounts of fatty substances, a feature which perfectly corresponds to the requirements of the typical 30+ skin. It is essential to avoid mineral oils as they may also have comedogenic properties in addition to their occlusive effects.

Additional recommendations

When cleansing acne skin it should be taken care (and this especially applies for the use at home) that only cleansing agents without re-fattening substances are used as those could cause counterproductive effects. Besides cleansing gels also liposomal lotions have proved successful in this field as they already transport linoleic acid with the above mentioned effects into the skin. It has to be added that the phosphatidylcholine of the liposomes also positively influences the scarring: existing scars are considerably softened.

The dryness of the skin surface which occurs due to the dermatological treatment with benzoyl peroxide or retinoids can be alleviated with a gentle DMS cream.

This article was supplied by dermaviduals®
derma aesthetics 
Freephone: 0800 SKIN 00 (0800 754 600 

For more information on dermaviduals® see their listing in our Supplier Directory.
Topics: Skin Care




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