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They say the Eyes are the Window to the Soul

Written by Tegan Frost on July 14th, 2014.      0 comments

Beauty Therapy Eye Artilce SpaBeauty

What other reason do you need to care for the very tissue that frames such an important feature of your face?

Eyes are the first thing we notice about someone we have just met, and we look into peoples eyes when we talk to them. 

We rub them when we are tired, apply and remove makeup, wipe them if we cry.  They show people when we are tired, happy or sad.

We ignore our eyes until something goes wrong, when our sight starts to fail us or when our eye make-up becomes more difficult to apply or just doesn’t look good anymore.

Our eyes undergo excessive wear and tear on a daily basis. The skin around the eyes is extremely fragile, with the skin thickness averaging at 0.6mm between the eyebrows and 0.5mm around the occipital bone.  In a flash this area shows age, fatigue and stress. It needs extra special care. In this blog I want to share with you some tips on how to care, protect and keep this area beautiful.

The area around the eyes suffers terribly. It is subjected to at least 10,000 movements a day and is exposed to UVA, UVB, cold and wind. The tissue is extremely thin. Thin skin finds it hard to retain water, so evaporation is rapid and the collagen and elastin fibres are more venerable.

Elastin is one of the first proteins to degenerate in the body. As the production of elastin reduces dramatically from the age of 22 years old, the result is the skin around the eyes can become lined and wrinkled from as early as 20.

Collagen is responsible for structural integrity and skin density, we produce collagen until the day we die, although after the age of forty it is in decreasing quantities. Both collagen and elastin are surrounded and supported by fluid called glycoaminoglycans (GAG’s). This fluid is responsible for keeping both collagen and elastin, hydrated, flexible and strong.

Here are a few frequently asked questions in regards to aging of the eye:

What does collagen loss look like on the skin?
It presents itself in the form of fine vertical lines, with common areas of loss being the corner of the eye, and eye lids. 

What does elastin loss look like?
Elastin loss is seen as horizontal lines and is commonly found under the eyes, and across the eyelid.

How to prevent collagen and elastin loss?
There is an inherited link to the aging process, look closely at your parents and grandparents and you will see what you could become. 

Slowing down the aging process is possible, but most of that will come from a change in lifestyle and environment. Smoking, sun damage, little or no skin protection will all accelerate the aging process.
Vitamin C, E & A based creams are excellent as are the vitamin supplements.

NOTE: Be careful when using Vitamin A eye products if you are prone to under eye puffiness.

Do eye creams really work?
In a nutshell – yes they do, BUT they will not stop the aging process completely, they do make a difference in keeping the delicate tissue hydrated – which in turn protects the   collagen and elastin, keeping the lines and wrinkles away!

Why do my eyelids go puffy.
Eyelids are the finest of tissue (as discussed above) and just under the skin there is a slack tissue containing no fat, this means it has room for water retention, and is why the eyelids swell up quickly.

What about bags under my eyes, can I prevent them?
This is tricky to treat, as many factors come into consideration. If bags are hereditary, they can be very difficult to treat, but there are ways to prevent them being too obvious or from getting worse. 
  • Never use oils around the eye area. 
  • Avoid excessive amounts of alcohol, and get plenty of sleep. 
  • Do not rub the eyes excessively. 
  • Watch your metabolism, if its slow you are more inclined to retain fluid. 
  • Do not use diuretics for this problem, drink water and have a 20 minute walk a day instead. 
  • Have an eye test once a year, and if you do need glasses, wear them!
How do I apply eye cream to my eyes?
Use a light pat, press & roll movement, with your ring finger to apply eye creams and cleansers, doing the movements from the outer corner of the eye to the inner corner of the eye.

I have dark circles under my eyes, can I get rid of them?
This is another hard to treat system of the eye area. The causes can be many, but again more likely to be hereditary and if this is the case, we can not get rid of them completely. However, tiredness and stress are huge factors as they impair the function of the lymphatic ducts. If there are problems with the lymphatic system the colour under the eye is more likely to be showing yellow than dark circles. 

There are also a number of medical conditions that will cause the under eye area to darken. If you are concerned it might pay to get a check up at your doctor to rule out any illness.
Eye Cream Application Technique

What is the best way to conceal the dark circles under my eyes?
There are many concealing creams to camouflage dark circles, What you want to look for is a concealer with pink undertones – it helps to colour correct darkness. If you use this every day you want to look for a non comedogenic product, this will not congest the area and cause millia.

Why can’t I use my face moisturizer around my eyes?
Day creams are specifically made to hydrate the skin tissue, and although they might feel light they will make the eye tissue puffy and cause your eye makeup to not sit correctly through out the day.

Night creams are usually oil based and are worse than day creams in regards to eye make up application, They are also more than likely to cause millia around the delicate eye tissue, caused from over saturation of the delicate tissue. Further more face creams can contain active ingredients at a percentage too concentrated and not specifically designed for the problems that occur around the eye area.

What do I choose, an eye gel or an eye cream?
If you are prone to millia a gel will be a better choice. If you wear a lot of eye make-up, a gel will give a lighter base. Some gels tend to have ingredients that are more effective for treating eye puffiness, As they are lighter, they don’t oversaturate the tissue. Gels are also better in the summer. 

Creams on the other hand can be better for a mature, dry skin. Winter is also a good time for a cream application, as this is when the environment is extra taxing on skins moisture.
Millia, what’s that?
Millia is a minor disorder and appears when the lipids (skin oil) become trapped between the layers of transforming cells. The fluid becomes keratinised, and forms a soft fibrous substance appearing as small pearly, rounded lumps under the skin. The condition is most common on dry and sensitive skin, and appears frequently around the eyes and cheek bones.

What causes millia?
Millia Condition in Spa Beauty
  • Creams that are too heavy or too rich (night cream are the usual culprits). 
  • Too much eye cream applied at night. 
  • Oil based creams or cleansers. 
If you have a client that has a problem with millia, look at what they are using around their eye area on a daily basis. Chances are the problem is there. Get them to stop using creams in the affected area and they will often fade away.

If the Millia do not fade away they can be lanced, but only by an experience therapist or doctor.
High Frequency by a skilled electrologist is another method. 
Do not pick them or try to remove them yourself, they can not be squeezed out. If you do this scarring will be the only result. 

When should I apply my eye cream- Morning or Night?
Morning is the best time to wear eye creams or gels.The reason for this is the eyes have the greatest amount of use during the day. They also receive the greatest exposure to UVA & B, therefore they have the greatest need for protection during the day. 

If you eyes are prone to puffiness you might want to avoid night time application. At night  the body temperature is higher and eye creams may run into the eye by accident causing puffiness and irritation. Its best to consult with your skin care specialist on how to use your tailored eye cream. 
What makes a good eye cream?

Eye creams should be designed to be light textured with ingredients like chamomile, hyaluronic acid, ceramides, algae, Spirulina, Vitamins A C E just to name a few.

My eyes are super sensitive, some eye creams irritates my eyes, why?
This is more often then not due to the perfumes & sunscreens in eye products. Sunscreens are either physical or chemical. Chemical based eye creams are more likely to irritate the eyes, this is often because of the fumes the chemical based sun blocks create. Physical eye creams are micro-fine titanium dioxide based, similar to your foundation, and generally cause no reaction at all.

Should I use a sun screen around my eyes?
Yes, but use a physical based sun block and one especially designed for the face with antioxidants like vitamins A C & E. 

What are crows feet and can I stop them?
These types of lines are a result of Environmental or external aging. Caused by sun, wind, cold, lack of care. Due to elastin loss because of the horizontal appearance. If you want to help delay the onset, start using a eye cream at the age of 20, a good physical sun screen and wear good quality sun glasses.

My eyelashes fall out, is this normal?
Yes, it is. Body hair is always falling out, we don’t notice it because of its growth cycle, which is about six weeks and new hair is coming through all the time. Occasionally you might loose 2 or 3 eyelashes at once which can be frightening!, however new ones will be through in no time at all. This cycle of hair growth pattern should not be confused with Alopecia, (which is a medical condition, where the hair falls out and does not grow back  for many years).

 Eye lashes need care to remain thick & healthy, just like head hair. Taking your mascara off at the end of every day with a good quality eye cleanser will keep the lashes supple & healthy. This is extra important especially if you use waterproof mascara. Do not leave your mascara on for days at a time, This is just asking for trouble. You can now buy eyelash enhancing conditioners to help protect and grow your lashes thicker and longer.
This article was supplied by Tegan Frost.




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